While researching destinations across California, Clear Lake caught my eye. A naturally occurring lake is rare in California’s lowlands, and seeing one in the middle of wine country was highly intriguing. And it’s the oldest lake in America? Being just a couple hours north of the Bay Area, I thought, this must be another one of those magical summer retreat destinations that are overcrowded and over-toured.
You can imagine my surprise when I found out the truth, that it is one of the most mocked and maligned places in California, earning nicknames like Methlake and the Redneck Riviera. When comparing it to Tahoe, Clear Lake is the natural and societal opposite. Instead of crystal clear waters, it’s muddy and algae infested throughout the summer. Instead of great wealth invested in giant mansions, it is one of the poorest parts of the state, with abandoned prefab homes sprinkled along the shore. It read like a Stranger Things Upside-Down version of Lake Tahoe, and I had to see it for myself.
Clear Lake State Park protects just under 600 acres of land along the lake’s southwestern shoreline, and contains a small network of trails that provide modest views of Clear Lake and nearby Mount Konocti. My chosen route is a “greatest hits” album of these trails that kick off with the Kelsey Creek Trail. The “creek” you are walking along is actually not Kelsey Creek. In fact, it’s not a creek at all, but rather a tongue of Clear Lake known as Kelsey Slough. The well-maintained boardwalk protects the marshlands beneath your feet.
The boardwalk eventually connects to a bridge across the slough, ushering me towards the Dorn Nature trailhead, the principal route of the park. The lower section of this trail routes through magical, shady oak woodland. Mosses, lichen and forbs colonize all available ground, making for an enchanting stroll.
Before I can get too comfortable, I’m called to a side-trail that leads down to a nearby bay. The path becomes increasingly narrow and poison oak infested trail gives way to Yoga ball-sized boulders, but the up-close views at the shore are worth the risk.
Dorn Bay is one of the many inlets along Clear Lake’s 100 miles of shoreline, and is perfectly positioned to face Mount Konocti, an extinct volcano that rises nearly 3,000 feet above the lake. The swampy, damp air along the muddy fringe of the lake reminds me more of the midwest than a typical California alpine lake, bringing me back home to Minnesota for five minutes. It’s hard to reconcile the slander and dismissal of Clear Lake with this serene scene before you.
Returning back to the Dorn Nature Trail, I climb up increasingly sunny tread into an airy oak savanna. Bay laurel, manzanita and interior live oak create a lovely open canopy.
Even then, the upper Dorn Nature Trail still sees plenty of sun, and the wildflowers are happy to soak it up. Blue dicks, lupine, buttercups, and douglas iris add colorful splashes of paint to green grasslands.
At the top of the ridge, occasional glimpses of Clear Lake can be found in any clearing, but the most comprehensive view of Clear Lake is found near the end of the trail. Called Lake Overlook on the brochure, this vista grants views of western Clear Lake and the rolling ridgeline of the Mayacmas. This vista is a fitting finale to a hike that has exceeded expectations and demonstrated the quiet beauty of Clear Lake.
Backcountry Bassett 